Day 4 | Core Climber | Online Climbing Training programs

Core Climber Demo - Day 4

Please note: The example training day is for reference only and not intended to be used as part of any training program.

Session Overview

Approximate session time is: 117 minutes

Ideal Location: Climbing Gym

Focusing on: Climbing strength and mobility.

This session consists of the following exercises:

Warming up for climbing Strength Training
hangboard - 2 arms - 3 hangs
Bouldering: (5 boulders - 8 to 12 moves)
Pull ups
Chin ups
Shoulders- Resistance Band
Abdominal bar leg raises
Back mobility
Shoulders- Wall- Body Rotation
Legs- Hamstring
Hips
Shoulder antagonistic muscles
Shoulder mobilty
10 minute stretching routine.

You will need to have access to:

Yoga mat
Resistance bands
Light flat weight or equivalent
Gym bouldering Wall
Finger board (edges, slopers and pinches for two arm hangs)
Pull up bar

Start Training

Exercise 1 - Warming up for climbing Strength Training

Set Decription

Warming up for boulders:

The warm up phase is very important and you should allow a minimum of 35 minutes.

This warm up is divided into 5 phases:

Follow the general body exercises in the "Warm up video 1 - General" (8 mins)
General warm up on jugs, on vertical or gently overhanging walls, any feet.
Follow the general body exercises in the "Warm up video 2- General" (4mins)
Warm up in a more specific way to the training that you will do, 5/6 boulders from easy to medium difficulty.
Include problems with gentle heel hooking moves too to warm up for this. You will often want to use heel hooks in training so we need to make sure we’re warmed up for that.

You can add simple stretching during and after the 2nd phase.

The following warm up exercises are what we'd recommend you do before doing this type of training session. It's very important to warm up the whole body well, and unless you are experienced and understand how to warm up correctly you should follow this warm up completely. If at the end you don't feel fully warmed up then you can repeat any steps until you do.

Click 'NEXT STEP' to start the training

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Overview

Climbing warm up with jugs/good holds on vertical or a gently overhanging walls with any feet.

Climbing warm up with jugs/good holds on vertical or a gently overhanging walls with open (any) holds for the feet.

Move 1 minute on the wall, up and down, on good holds, any holds for the feet.
Rest 1 minute

2. Move 1 minute on the wall, traversing to right and left, on good holds, any holds for the feet.
Rest 1 minute

3. Move 1 minute on the wall, every direction, medium holds, any holds for the feet.
Rest 1 minute

4. Move 2 minutes on the wall, every direction, medium holds, any holds for the feet.
Rest 1 minute

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Overview

Warming up in a more specific way for the training that you'll be doing, 5/6 boulders from easy to medium difficulty.

Instructions

Setting your levels.

In the programs we use the terms Easy, Medium , Personal and Hard level. This is used to set the difficulty of climber exercises and is based on your own personal level. So before any climbing training sessions you need to have an understanding of these levels for you and below is a guide of how to set those levels.

We describe your Personal level as the hardest grade that you climb in 1-5 tries within the same session and this being on a boulder that you have not tried before.

So for example, if you have a personal boulder grade of 6c/V3 then you could set your bouldering levels as follows:

Your Easy level : up to 6a (VB-V0)
Your Medium level : 6b (V1)
Your Personal level: 6c (V3)
Your Hard level: 6c+/7a (V4/5)

You can also apply this concept for the short and long routes.

Please remember, grading is a guideline to the difficulty and can vary from boulder to boulder, or gym to gym. There is also often a difference between the grade you climb outside verses inside. So setting these levels and the combination that works for you can require a little experience and it may take a little practice to get it right.

Warming up in a more specific way to the training that you will do in the session, 5/6 boulders from easy to medium difficulty (see 'Instructions' section on how to set your levels).

Make sure you climb on comfortable holds, not sharp or pocket holds

Include problems with gentle heel hooking moves too. You will often want to use heel hooks in training so we need to make sure we’re warmed up for that.

1. Try 1 attempt on easy boulder, follow the holds but open/any holds for the feet.
Rest 1 minute

2. Try 1 attempt on easy boulder, follow the holds for hands and feet.
Rest 1 minute

3. Try 1 attempt on medium/easy boulder, follow the holds for hands and feet.
Rest 1 minute

4. Try 1 attempt on medium boulder, follow the holds for hands and feet.
Rest 1 minute

5. Try 1 attempt on medium boulder, follow the holds for hands and feet.
Rest 1 minute

6. Try 1 attempt on hard boulder, follow the holds for hands and feet.

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Exercise 2 - hangboard - 2 arm hangs - 3 hangs

Set Decription

2 arms 10 second hangs on a sloper, edge and pinch.

Rest 2 minutes between hangs.

Instructions

This next exercise set is 2 arm hanging. For this exercise, it's important that you are able to hang each hold type for a minimum of 8 seconds but no longer that 12 seconds.

Make sure you adapt the training to suit your level by selecting the correct holds. If you need to, use a bungee cord or your feet resting on something to assist you hangs. The most important thing is you choose holds that you can hold for a minimum and a maximum (to failure) of the specified time for this exercise.

Remember:

Warm up well before hanging.
do NOT do this type of training if you feel too tired.
Always pay attention to the choice of holds, make sure you use symmetrical and comfortable holds – never use sharp holds.
Always use an open hand position and never full crimp holds.
Choose hold size and hanging technique that is suitable for your level.
Do not move the body, avoid swinging or rotating and try to stay as stable as possible.
Engage the shoulders
Respect the resting times and the number of sets indicated for training.
The moment before falling open the fingers and drop to the feet.

After you have warmed up completely, choose 3 holds, an edge, sloper andpinch that you can hang for a minimum of 8 seconds but no more that 12 seconds.

You can use a bungee or your feet on something for assistance if you need to.

If new to or have not done so yet, it’s very important to look at the 'Instuctions' section above and watch the "Instructional Hanging Video" first.

Exercise summary

You will be doing one 10 second hang on each hold with 2 minutes rest between hangs

The hangs will be done in the following sequence: Sloper, Edge and Pinch

Click 'NEXT STEP' to start the training

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Overview

Hangboard training is a very effective way to train strength and endurance in the hands. Like many other very specific climbing training, it’s very intensive and is only really effective and safe if done in a structured way.

If new to or have not done so yet, it’s very important to watch the "Instructional Hanging Video" first.

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Overview

If new to or have not done so yet, it’s very important to watch the "Instructional Hanging Video" first.

Tips

Never full crimp, use a half crimp and open crimp positions.
Choose hold size and hanging technique that is suitable for your level.
Engage the shoulders
Do not move the body, avoid swinging and try to stay as stable as possible.
Respect the resting times and the number of sets indicated for training.
The moment before falling open the fingers and drop to the feet.

Important Exercise Information

Warm up well before hanging.
do NOT do this type of training if you feel too tired.
Always pay attention to the choice of holds, make sure you use symmetrical and comfortable holds – never use sharp holds.
Always use an open hand position and never full crimp holds.
Choose hold size and hanging technique that is suitable for your level.
Do not move the body, avoid swinging or rotating and try to stay as stable as possible.
Engage the shoulders
Respect the resting times and the number of sets indicated for training.
The moment before falling open the fingers and drop to the feet.

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Overview

If new to or have not done so yet, it’s very important to watch the "Instructional Hanging Video” first.

Tips

Never full crimp, use a half crimp and open crimp positions.
Choose hold size and hanging technique that is suitable for your level.
Engage the shoulders
Do not move the body, avoid swinging and try to stay as stable as possible.
Respect the resting times and the number of sets indicated for training.
The moment before falling open the fingers and drop to the feet.

Important Exercise Information

Warm up well before hanging.
do NOT do this type of training if you feel too tired.
Always pay attention to the choice of holds, make sure you use symmetrical and comfortable holds – never use sharp holds.
Always use an open hand position and never full crimp holds.
Choose hold size and hanging technique that is suitable for your level.
Do not move the body, avoid swinging or rotating and try to stay as stable as possible.
Engage the shoulders
Respect the resting times and the number of sets indicated for training.
The moment before falling open the fingers and drop to the feet.

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Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 3 - Bouldering: (5 boulders - 8 to 12 moves)

Overview

This next exercise set is focussing on bouldering/climbing strength and technique.

This session is all about the quality of your climbing and not about endurance. In order to gain strength effectively you need to train specifically and this session is about that. So make sure you rest well between attempts and when you do climb, try hard and really focus on your technique. Make each attempt count!

As we’re focussing on strength and quality of training then if you feel your strength or energy starting to decline in the session think about finishing it early. There’s no benefit to this form of training if the quality is not high and you increase the of risk injury. Always listen to your body, we want you to stay healthy.

As always, make sure you’re warmed up before starting the training and make sure you stay hydrated throughout the session by drinking water throughout.

Instructions

Setting your levels.

In the programs we use the terms Easy, Medium, Personal and Hard level . This is used to set the difficulty of climber exercises and is based on your own personal level. So before any climbing training sessions you need to have an understanding of these levels for you and below is a guide of how to set those levels.

We describe your Personal level as the hardest grade that you climb in 1-5 tries within the same session and this being on a boulder that you have not tried before.

So for example, if you have a personal boulder grade of 6c/V3 then you could set your bouldering levels as follows:

Your Easy level : up to 6a (VB-V0)
Your Medium level : 6b (V1)
Your Personal level: 6c (V3)
Your Hard level: 6c+/7a (V4/5)

You can also apply this concept for the short and long routes.

Tips

Make sure you have as much variety as possible in the style of boulder.
Alternate style between different boulders.
Make sure you focus on the quality of your climbing.
Try to work out your sequence in advance.
Make sure the holds are clean.
Focus on each attempt and make it count.
Respect rest times and the number of attempts allowed.
Make sure you drink water throughout the session.

Important Exercise Information

Don’t attempt each problem more than 3 times
To get maximum benefit from the session, make sure you have a lot of variety in the style and moves of the boulders you choose, try to include technical, dynamic and compression moves.
Vary the kind of holds used. A mixture of small edges, pinches, slopers, small footholds, etc…). Avoid sharp holds, pockets and mono holds (holds that use only one finger).
Vary the angle of climbing for session and try have an equal mixture of slabs, steep walls and overhanging.
Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem you are going to attempt; make sure you know where the holds are and what they are like. Try to work out the sequence you think you will use. You don’t want to fall because you don’t know where the holds are or where you are going and working out how you climb something before you start is an important skill.
Try to make sure the holds are clean, and if they need cleaning brush them before your attempt.
Stay focussed on each attempt and make each one count.
Make sure you rest enough before each attempt. 30 seconds to 3 minutes depending on if you fell at the start of the problem of at the top or completed it.
Rest 3 to 4 minutes before the next boulder problem.
Listen to your body. If you feel your strength or energy starting to decline in the session think about finishing it early. There’s no benefit to this form of training if the quality is not high and you increase the of risk injury.
Always try to focus on your technique and climb the problems with as much precision as possible. For each attempt, try to climb better and faster.

REMEMBER to drink water often through your session, getting dehydrated will risk injury and also affect your performance.

After you have warmed up completely, choose 5 boulders of Medium, Personal and Hard level of around 8 to 12 moves (See the ‘Exercise overview and how to’ section above on setting your level).

Exercise summary

You will be climbing them in the following sequence :

1 personal / 1 hard / 1 personal/1 hard/ 1 personal

These can be either problems you’ve done before, tried before or ones that are new to you, a mixture of new and problems you know is better. Choose problems that vary in style in the order you climb them so you training will be more complete and you will not over work certain muscles.

Attempt each boulder problem 3 times, if you do it, repeat it again but no more than 3 time maximum. Always start each attempt from the beginning. Each time try to climb faster and better. After 3 attempts, then change to the next boulder problem to vary the muscular workout.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes between attempts on each boulder, depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

Click 'NEXT STEP' to start the training

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Attempt 1 on boulder problem 1 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 2 on boulder problem 1 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

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Attempt 3 on boulder problem 1 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 1 on boulder problem 2 (Hard Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 2 on boulder problem 2 (Hard Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

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Attempt 3 on boulder problem 2 (Hard Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 1 on boulder problem 3 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 2 on boulder problem 3 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

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Attempt 3 on boulder problem 3 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 1 on boulder problem 4 (Hard Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 2 on boulder problem 4 (Hard Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

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Attempt 3 on boulder problem 4 (Hard Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 1 on boulder problem 5 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

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Attempt 2 on boulder problem 5 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

Prev Step

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Attempt 3 on boulder problem 5 (Personal Level)

Make sure you spend time looking at the boulder problem before you attempt it
Try to make sure the holds are clean.
Stay focussed and make the attempt count.

Cancel out of the timer if you want to reduce the rest time but rest from at least 30 seconds to a max of 3 minutes depending where you fell on the previous go and how recovered you feel.

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Conditioning and Mobility

The following exercise block will focus on conditioning and mobility, starting with pull ups, then a variety of conditioning and mobility exercises followed by a short stretching session

You'll need the following equipment ready:

Pull up bar
Resistance bands
Yoga mat or gym floor
Light flat weights or equivalant

Click 'NEXT EXERCISE' to start the training

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 4 - Pull ups

Instructions

Maximum pull-ups using the bar, palms facing away from you.
Do a minimum of 10 pullups and maximum to as many as you can. (If you can't do 10 unaided then either use bungee assistance or drop down to rest and then continue)

Important Exercise Information

Make sure you keep the shoulder muscles engaged all the time
Complete the pull-up going high.
Don’t stay locked off when you go up
Avoid extending the arms too much when you go down.
Try to do gentle controlled movements and breathe.
Keep the back straight, not arched.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 5 - Chin ups

Instructions

10 chin-ups to the limit, with the palms facing towards you.
Do a minimum of 10 pullups and maximum to as many as you can. (If you can't do 10 unaided then either use bungee assistance)

Important Exercise Information

Make sure you keep the shoulder muscles engaged all the time
Complete the pull-up going high.
Don’t stay locked off when you go up
Avoid extending the arms too much when you go down.
Try to do gentle controlled movements and breathe.
Keep the back straight, not arched.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 6 - Shoulders’s posture- Elastic band exercise 1

Instructions

Extending the chest muscles, starting from a resting position and rotating the wrists and shoulders, stretching the arms as far as possible behind the back.

Important Exercise Information

Use a medium tension band, not too hard, to avoid injury.
Focus on controlled movements and pulling the arms back as far as you can in each rep.
Keep the body straight, legs, back and neck. Do not arch your back.
Inhale in the resting position and exhale during the extension phase.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 7 - Abdominal bar leg raises

Instructions

Controlled lateral movements, engaging specifically abdominals and shoulders and bring the feet up to the level of the bar. Abdominal Exercise. From hanging, starting from a position of arms at 90 degrees, alternate lifting the legs to the right, in the center and to the left trying to bring the feet up to the level of the bar. It is very important to maintain a solid position to avoid pain for the shoulders and lower back muscles.

Important Exercise Information

Engage the shoulders.
Do not arch the back.
Do not stretch your legs too much, for not over stretch the back’s muscles.
Do not swing, maintain the body as more stable as possible.
If it’s too difficult, bend the legs and bring raise the knees up.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 8 - Body Mobility 1

Instructions

Starting with the arms, legs and the body stretched out, alternating the movement, bring the right hand up to touch the left foot without bending the legs but only the torso, return to the starting position and change hands.

Perform slow, steady movements and maintain a steady breathing rhythm.

Important Exercise Information

Mobility exercises are useful as active resting and also will improve your general body flexibility and will reduce the possible risk of injury to connective tissues and muscles. However here some important points to note:

If you have an injury, do not do it, or otherwise get advice from a physiotherapist, to avoid worsening your condition.
Before any exercise, always make sure you are properly warmed up.
Do not move improperly during the exercises, because it could cause possible injuries.
Do each exercise slowly and carefully to prevent possible injuries.
Everyone has personal physical limits, be careful to do not exaggerate on each position.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 9 - Shoulder rotations on wall

Instructions

Before doing the exercise, take the right distance from the wall, stretch the shoulder height arm: you have to touch the wall with your fingertips. The further you get away from the wall, the more difficult the exercise will become. Alternate three different positions: upper arm of the shoulder, arm height shoulder and lower arm of the shoulder. Place the palm of the hand firmly against the wall, starting from a lateral position of the stretched arm, perform a single-arm flexion, rotating the trunk until the arm is closed as much as possible.

Important Exercise Information

Keep the body, legs, back and neck straight.
Do not arch your back.
Keep the elbows straight, in its natural position, do not bend it down or up, avoid lateral force.
You can change the difficulty by changing the distance your body is from the wall

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 10 - Body weight hamstring curls

Instructions

Start lying down with someone blocking your feet. Biceps femoris lifting, keeping the back straight. Accompany the exercise with constant breathing: breathe in when you go down into the starting position, exhale when you pull up.

Important Exercise Information

Keep the body, back and neck straight upright.
The exercise is focused on the work of the hamstring, if it’s too difficult you can help by using the arms to push up.
Inhale when you go down into the starting position.
Exhale when you pull up.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 11 - Hips mobility exercise 1

Instructions

Starting from a position on the side, stretch the arm and leg on the same side, rotate the trunk by put your opposite foot forward as possible, stretch the back leg lengthening the hips.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 12 - Shoulder antagonistic muscles 1

Instructions

Starting from lying down on your stomach, lifting your legs and shoulders as much as possible so as to stretch your back, maintain this position throughout the exercise. Using small weights, move your arms from front to back keeping them extended

Important Exercise Information

Use light weights.
Controlled movements.

Next Exercise Go back

Exercise 13 - Body Mobility 2

Instructions

Extend your arms as much as possible, you should feel your shoulders completely extended. Alternate arms.
Breathe steadily and fluidly.

Important Exercise Information

If you have an injury, do not do it, or otherwise get advice from a physiotherapist, to avoid worsening your condition.
Before any exercise, be always sure to have all the body warm enough.
Do each exercise slowly and carefully to prevent possible injuries.
Everyone has personal physical limits, be careful to do not exaggerate on each position.

Next Exercise Go back

Warm Down - General Stretching - 10 Minutes short version.

Overview

Short 10 minute stretching routine.

Important Exercise Information

Stretching will improve your general body flexibility and will reduce the possible risk of injury to connective tissues and muscles. However here some important points to note:

If you have an injury, do not stretch, or otherwise ask help to a physiotherapist, to avoid worsening your condition.
Before any stretching exercise, be always sure to have all the body warm enough.
Each stretching position must be maintained for minimum 20 seconds, because it’s important to exceed the "myotatic reflex”, which does not allow the muscles to stretch for the first 10/15 seconds.
Do not move improperly during stretching, because it does not allow you to stretch well and could cause possible injuries.
Do each exercise slowly and carefully to prevent possible injuries.
Everyone has personal physical limits, be careful to do not push too hard on each position.

Finish Go back

Core Climber Demo - Day 4

Exercise 1 - Warming up for climbing Strength Training

Exercise 2 - hangboard - 2 arm hangs - 3 hangs

Exercise 3 - Bouldering: (5 boulders - 8 to 12 moves)

Conditioning and Mobility

Exercise 4 - Pull ups

Exercise 5 - Chin ups

Exercise 6 - Shoulders’s posture- Elastic band exercise 1

Exercise 7 - Abdominal bar leg raises

Exercise 8 - Body Mobility 1

Exercise 9 - Shoulder rotations on wall

Exercise 10 - Body weight hamstring curls

Exercise 11 - Hips mobility exercise 1

Exercise 12 - Shoulder antagonistic muscles 1

Exercise 13 - Body Mobility 2

Warm Down - General Stretching - 10 Minutes short version.

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