As with all our programs, we aim to deliver well structured and balanced training to maximize your gains. This type of training is especially very specific and intense on the fingers and it can’t be stressed enough that the benefits of this type of training come as much from the resting as from the training itself. So always respect the duration of hangs, the number of sets and rest periods detailed, even if you feel you want to train more. The skill for this training is to do short but intense sessions.
- 18 years or older
- have no medical condition that could effect your safety or health when doing exercise.
- have no current injuries that would be affected by exercise or climbing.
- minimum 2 years of climbing experience.
- the strength level to hang two handed on an edge of 1.5cm depth for at least 10 seconds, similarly on a small sloper and pinch.
- the shoulder strength to hang by one arm (on either arm) on a bar or good hold with the shoulders engaged for at least 10 seconds.
You should consult with your physician or other health care professional before starting this or any other Training program to determine if it is right for your needs. Do not start the Training Program if your physician or health care provider advises against it.
Participation in the Training Program may result in injury or aggravation of previous injuries, conditions, symptoms, or congenital defects. Do not engage in the Training Program if you have a medical condition that may not be compatible with the Program.
The use of any information provided on this site is solely at your own risk. If you engage in the Training Program, you agree that you do so at your own risk and fully assume all risk of injury to yourself. You also agree to waive all claims and release Core Climber Inc. and its employees and representatives from any and all liability for any loss, damage, expense or injury, including death, that you may suffer as a result of participating in the Training Program.
To do this training program you need to have at least the strength level to hang two handed on an edge of 1.5cm depth for at least 10 seconds, similarly on a small sloper (and pinch if you have one).
You will also need the shoulder strength to hang by one arm (on either arm) on a bar or good hold with the shoulders engaged for at least 10 seconds.
If you do not have this base of strength yet, then we suggest looking at a different program for example our finger strength program (home edition) .
The program revolves around 2 phases over an 8 week period. Each phase is slightly different and designed to be done together to maximize your gains by the end of the program.
The first week of the program is for adaptation, to understand the size of the holds you need to use specific to your level and the necessary weights to use for certain hangs. It’ll also be a good introduction to the training and help transition into the training phase.
You will also need to work out the weights you need for maximum number of; 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 pullups.
In the first adaptation week you will be asked to do an assessment and to fill out the details of this. This will be used as your baseline and you will perform 2 or 3 more assessments every four weeks throughout the program. Once you have decided on the holds for the first assessment it’s important to ALWAYS use the same holds for all subsequent assessments.
After the first 3 weeks you will do the second assessment which will be compared against the first baseline assessment to see how you have improved. If the assessment shows or you feel you have not adapted or made the necessary gains to proceed you will be given the option to repeat the first 2 week phase.
The program will include 4 days for each week, and once you have chosen your starting day, you will have a fixed schedule. So for example: Monday / Wednesday/Thursday / Saturday or Tuesday / Thursday / Friday / Sunday etc.
Although you can climb during this program on the specific training days it’s important not to do any other form of finger/climbing specific training during the program. It’s also very important to respect the rest days after a training day. This is not only to reduce the risk of injury but it will also maximise the benefit of the training itself and you will not get the best gains if you do more than is specified in the program.
This program integrative training and is very specific for the fingers. After doing a day training program it is good to climb in the gym, but avoid boulders with small crimps or possibly painful holds, and definitely do not add any form of additional finger training.
To do the training you will need to make sure you have access to basic equipment, a pull up bar and fingerboard.
For this programs you’ll ideally need the following BUT you may not have everything so don’t worry. Be flexible (replace pinches with slopers or use the same edgge twice for example, the more variety the better but certainly not crucial for training.
- Four edge sizes for hanging by two hands (approximately depth in cm) , x-small – 1.5cm, small – 2cm, medium – 2.5cm and large – 3cm. You should be able to hold the medium edge for at least 16 seconds.
- Three slopers types for hanging by two hands, small (approximately first joint sloper), medium (approximately second joint sloper) and large (approximately third joint/up to the palm). In the case of the large sloper, make sure it is not too large and causes you to bend the wrist from a neutral position in order to hold it. For all slopers you must be able to hold them for at least 12 seconds.
- Three pinches for hanging by two hands, small (approximately 3-4cm wide), medium (approximately 6-8cm wide) and large (approximately 10-12cm wide). This will depend on hand size. For all pinches you must be able to hold them for at least 12 seconds, if necessary you can add assistance with a bungee cord to achieve this.
- One edge size between 2.5cm and 3.5cm and one large sloper for hanging by one arm each side. You will need to be able to hang them for between 8 and 10 seconds maximum. Ideally using your body weight but if you need some assistance you can use a pulley type system as described in the instructional video or if you can hang longer than 10 seconds with body weight then you can add a little weight but no more than 5kg.
See the description below for a full equipment list.
- Yoga mat
- Resistance bands
- Flat weight or equivalent (water bottles for example)
- Finger Board – this should hopefully have a variety of edges and slopers. if you’re lucky you may have pinches which we do specify in the training but don’t worry, if you don’t have pinches you can replace with slopers)
- Pull up bar or jugs on you fingerboard.
- adjustable rings or use the pull up bar you have with a sling to assist.
- Dumb bell or equivalent (not essential but nice to have)
- Elastic Band for finger extensor (again, not essential but nice to have)
After you’ve purchased the program you’ll be able to login into your profile and view the program summary with an overview of each day. You activate your program on the day you want to start training so it’s worth looking at the summary and seeing how it will fit into your schedule.
There are of course times though when you can’t train on the day you’re meant to, in other programs we give you the option to choose either the day before (if you missed it) or the following day from the current day. You can only do this if the current day is a rest. In this case though because you can’t do this training two days consecutively then if you miss a session, rest and wait until the next training day.
When you’ve finished your session click the completed button so you know you’ve finished the session.
As with all programs, we recommend time off from training after you have completed the full program. In this case at least 3 weeks off and just climbing. This is the period where you go out and enjoy your new strength and send your projects! If you climb without training you should keep in shape for about 6-9 weeks. At the very least you need to maintain what you have done which would require at least 2 – 1 hour sessions per week. At least one of these being strength based and the other either strength or endurance. Both in the form of just going climbing, trying hard and and having fun!
- This program is designed for climbers of 18 years or older.
- Don’t Start any program if you have an injury.
- Do not do any programs if you have any medical conditions.
- Always make sure you are properly warmed up before starting your session. Warm ups will be giving at the beginning of each days session and please follow them but if you still don’t feel warmed up then repeat the warm up or do some other warm ups you like until you feel ready.
- If you feel pain during any exercise then stop and seek medical opinion before continuing.
- Follow each days program in full to get the maximum benefit and remember
- Don’t exceed the number of sets or repetitions in program.
- Don’t repeat any parts of the training session (other than the warm up).