Finger Strength

$60.00

Specific for those who want to focus on developing finger strength, this is our 9 week finger strength training program with 3 sessions per week lasting between 1.5 and 2 hours. It’s designed to be done along side your regular climbing (as long as you are not doing any other form of climbing training other than just climbing and you respect the resting periods detailed in the program).

Please Note: Because of the nature of this type of training, this is the least flexible type of program and you cannot move training days around one you’ve chosen your weekly schedule. Please see the program details below for more information.

This program is designed for climbers of 18 years or older.

As with all core climber programs, you’ll be taken through the training program day by day and able to follow each session in a real time to make the training easy to follow and motivating.

Even though this program can be done by anyone new to finger strength training, it still requires a level of basic finger and arm strength:

  • the strength level to hang two handed on and edge of 3cm depth for at least 10/12 seconds, similarly on a small slopers and pinches.

Please read the full description and program requirements below to make sure this program is right for you.

Description

As with all our programs, we aim to deliver well structured and balanced training to maximize your gains. This type of training is especially very specific and intense on the fingers and it can’t be stressed enough that the benefits of this type of training come as much from the resting as from the training itself. So always respect the duration of hangs, the number of sets and rest periods detailed, even if you feel you want to train more. The skill for this training is to do short but intense sessions.

Program Requirements:

  • 18 years or older
  • have no medical condition that could effect your safety or health when doing exercise.
  • have no current injuries that would be affected by exercise or climbing.
  • minimum 2 years of climbing experience.
  • the strength level to hang two handed on and edge of 3cm depth for at least 10/12 seconds, similarly on a small slopers and pinches.

Please Note:

You should consult with your physician or other health care professional before starting this or any other Training program to determine if it is right for your needs. Do not start the Training Program if your physician or health care provider advises against it.

Participation in the Training Program may result in injury or aggravation of previous injuries, conditions, symptoms, or congenital defects. Do not engage in the Training Program if you have a medical condition that may not be compatible with the Program.

The use of any information provided on this site is solely at your own risk. If you engage in the Training Program, you agree that you do so at your own risk and fully assume all risk of injury to yourself. You also agree to waive all claims and release Core Climber Inc. and its employees and representatives from any and all liability for any loss, damage, expense or injury, including death, that you may suffer as a result of participating in the Training Program.

Program Details

To do this training program you need to have at least the strength level to hang two handed on and edge of 3cm depth for at least 10/12 seconds, similarly on a small slopers and pinches. If you do not have this base of strength yet, then we suggest looking at one of the  other program we offer.

The program revolves around 3 phases over a 9 week period. Each phase is slightly different and designed to be done together to maximize your gains by the end of the 9 week period.

The first week of the program is for adaptation, to understand the size of the holds you need to use specific to your level and the necessary weights to use for certain hangs. It’ll also be a good introduction to the training and help transition into the training phase.

In the first adaptation week you be asked to do an assessment and to fill out the details of this. This will be used as your baseline and you will perform 3 or 4 more assessments every three weeks throughout the program. Once you have decided on the holds for the first assessment it’s important to ALWAYS use the same holds for all subsequent assessments.

After the first 3 weeks you will do the second assessment which will be compared against the first baseline assessment to see how you have improved. If the assessment shows or you feel you have not adapted or made the necessary gains to proceed you will be given the option to repeat the first 3 week phase.

The program will include 3 days for each week, and once you have chosen your starting day, you will have a fixed schedule. So for example: Monday / Wednesday / Friday or Tuesday / Thursday / Saturday or Wednesday / Friday / Sunday.

Although you can climb during this program on the specific training days it’s important not to do any other form of finger/climbing specific training during the program. It’s also very important to respect the rest days after a training day. This is not only to reduce the risk of injury but it will also maximise the benefit of the training itself and you will not get the best gains if you do more than is specified in the program.

This program integrative training and very specific for the fingers. After doing a day training program it is good to climb in the gym, but avoid boulders with small crimps or possibly painful holds, and definitely do not add any form of additional finger training.

Equipment Required:

To do the training you will need to make sure you have access to basic gym equipment, a climbing wall and specific climbing training equipment, all of which should be available at a commercial gym.

For this programs you’ll need the following:

  1. Three edge sizes for hanging by two hands, small (approximately 2.5cm depth), medium (approximately 3cm depth) and large (approximately 4cm depth). You should be able to hold the medium edge for at least 12 seconds.
  2. Three slopers types for hanging by two hands, small (approximately first joint sloper), medium (approximately second joint sloper) and large (approximately third joint/up to the palm). In the case of the large sloper, make sure it is not too large and causes you to bend the wrist from a neutral position in order to hold it. For all slopers you must be able to hold them for at least 12 seconds.
  3. Three pinches for hanging by two hands, small (approximately 3-4cm wide), medium (approximately 6-8cm wide) and large (approximately 10-12cm wide). This will depend on hand size. For all pinches you must be able to hold them for at least 12 seconds, if necessary you can add assistance with a bungee cord to achieve this.

See the description below for a full equipment list.

  • Yoga mat
  • Resistance bands
  • shoulder height fixing point
  • floor fixing point
  • Flat weight or equivalent
  • Gym bouldering Wall
  • Medicine ball or equivalent
  • Kettle bell or equivalent
  • Finger Board
  • Variety of slopers for hanging
  • Variety of pinch blocks for hanging
  • Campus Board
  • Bench or or equivalent
  • Dumb bell or equivalent
  • Elastic Band for finger extensor

After you’ve purchased the program you’ll be able to login into your profile and view the program summary with an overview of each day. You activate your program on the day you want to start training so it’s worth looking at the summary and seeing how it will fit into your schedule.

There are of course times though when you can’t train on the day you’re meant to, in other programs we give you the option to choose either the day before (if you missed it) or the following day from the current day. You can only do this if the current day is a rest. In this case though because you can’t do this training two days consecutively then if you miss a session, rest and wait until the next training day.

When you’ve finished your session click the completed button so you know you’ve finished the session.

As with all programs, we recommend time off from training after you have completed the full program. In this case at least 3 weeks off and just climbing. This is the period where you go out and enjoy your new strength and send your projects! If you climb without training you should keep in shape for about 6-9 weeks. At the very least you need to maintain what you have done which would require at least 2 – 1 hour sessions per week. At least one of these being strength based and the other either strength or endurance. Both in the form of just going climbing, trying hard and and having fun!

REMEMBER:

  • This program is designed for climbers of 18 years or older.
  • Don’t Start any program if you have an injury.
  • Do not do any programs if you have any medical conditions.
  • Always make sure you are properly warmed up before starting your session. Warm ups will be giving at the beginning of each days session and please follow them but if you still don’t feel warmed up then repeat the warm up or do some other warm ups you like until you feel ready.
  • If you feel pain during any exercise then stop and seek medical opinion before continuing.
  • Follow each days program in full to get the maximum benefit and remember
  • Don’t exceed the number of sets or repetitions in program.
  • Don’t repeat any parts of the training session (other than the warm up).